Instruction Sheet For Replacing an Existing Outlet Box
All electrical connections should be completed by a qualified electrician.
IMPORTANT: Use 3/8" or 1/2" long 6-32 screws to connect any receptacle to the RED box. Longer screws will be very hard to turn as they get to the end!
1. This RED A1.00.06 box has a mounting flange and is designed to be installed on a stud. This RED A1.00.06 box is designed to handle non-metallic sheath cable or low voltage systems that can be used with standard UL approved 3/8" clamps. This means this box is not set up to accept hard conduit. However, this A1.00.06 box can receive flex conduit if it is approved by your local building code.
2. The RED box should be wired in the same manner as a conventional box. The principle difference is the connection is put on the bottom of the box not behind the receptacle.
3. When replacing an existing single gang box with a new RED box BE SURE THE POWER IS TURNED OFF, (double check that the power is turned off at the box location). Do not count on the labeling at the panel box or a proximity type tester. Use a contact tester to be sure the power is off.
4. For existing walls, (this means all but new or bare stud walls), it will be necessary to remove the dry wall or other finishes within about 3" to 6" around the existing box. Be careful not to damage the wires behind the finished wall. Keep in mind that this area will need to be repaired once the new box is installed.
5. Be sure to mark the conductors, wires, so you can reconnect them appropriately. Disconnect the receptacle and conductors and remove the box.
6. Prepare the RED box for installation. Remove the knockouts as needed. Install UL approved wire clamps.
7. The new box should be mounted in the same location on the stud as the old box. Install the new " box with at least three screws. " The flange on the " box is set up to be installed on the right side of the stud. However, it can also be installed on the left side of the stud. This means that the recessed cavity will be at the top of the box not the bottom. It is slightly more difficult to see the conductors, but the box works the same in either case.
8. Install the conductors through the clamps. Be sure the clamps are secure.
9. If the existing wires are too short to reach the recessed section of the RED box, install additional lengths of wire using wire nuts. There is enough room on the side of the receptacle location, (the space in-between the boss towers), to accommodate these connections extending the wire length. Install all multiple wire connections in the recessed section of the box.
10. CRITICAL: Install the receptacle using 3/8" long, (provided), or ½" long 6-32 boss screws only. NOTE: The screws that are standard on most receptacles are generally too long and will be extremely difficult to install. For standard ½' sheetrock walls install the 3/8" screws all the way in. For thicker walls, use ½" screws. These screws may need to be backed off to accommodate thicker walls, such as a wall with tile. Click for Installation Notes and Q&A.
11. Install the cover plate. Be sure the cover plate is tight to the receptacle. This means in thicker walls the receptacle will need to be approx 2" recessed from the surface of the wall. There is a small margin between the cover plate and the box. This will allow for minor adjustments to the receptacle, so that it can be installed plumb.
